Foliage and flowers dried in sand never look dehydrated. But my favorite method is drying flowers in sand. Often a person in a dry climate will have completely different results than a person in a humid climate. Very delicate flowers, like most roses, double peonies, and tulips, dry best in silica gel. Start with smaller projects, and get to know how your resin will work with varying scenarios that effect the projects, in your environment. It all takes practice based on your environment (temperature and humidity), resin type, volume per layer, size of mould/project and inclusions being used. There is not one set of rules or timing or depth unfortunately. Or, another option is once your florals are set, you can use a deep pour for the balance of the mould, as it will not get hot enough (provided pouring in the brands recommended depths), to burn the florals. This is why many floral preservation artists work in layers only. Silica gel-preserved flowers are good for wreaths, dried flower arrangements (can add fake stems after they have dried), decor, basket arrangements, art. This practice involves covering the flowers with your silica substance and letting them set for a few days while the sand or gel absorbs the moisture from the plant. With some florals, and some resins, if it's too deep a pour, you can accidentally burn your flowers if the resin overheats from being poured to deeply in a mould at one session. Preserving Flowers with Silica Gel or Silica Sand Silica sand and silica gel offer another flower preservation method. Once flowers/organics are in desired location & secured with previous resin layers, you can then decide based on your resin brand directions, how deep your following layers will be.
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